Recap from a post-derecho vineyard

So far, 2012 has offered a very cordial growing season. Any shortcomings experienced in our vineyard have been attributed to learning experiences. One day in June, we felt forced to spray before an imminent storm. However, temperatures spiked in advance of the rain event, and burned leaves and even some fruit. Lesson learned.

We have learned meteorology as well. On June 29, we experienced an amazing straight-line wind storm, called a derecho. The leaves were thrashed by winds and flying brush. However, the fruit held strong. On the contrary, our orchard lost almost all the apples and pears. The vineyard was spared mostly, but a few scars remain.

Veraison will be any day now...

Sunrise in the vineyard. New mercies each day.

Netting to protect the grapes from birds and deer.

Petit manseng.

Petit verdot.

2011 plantings. Growing very well.

Fruit set & leaf pulling. Memorial day.

A healthy vineyard. The 2009 planting on the right, 2011 planting on the left. The 2011 vines are thriving, with no visible deer nibbling this year. Deer severely impacted the vineyard last year, but not at all now.

Integrated pest management is critical in cultivating outstanding wine grapes. I use fairly innocuous chemicals (copper, sulfur, phosphorous acid, and others), so the cultural practices are even more important. Leaf pulling on the east side allows the morning sun to dry the dew off the young grapes. Less moisture, less disease. Also, it is easier to catch disease earlier with direct visualization of the developing fruit. I just never would have foreseen that I would be pulling leaves as early as Memorial Day!

BB-sized petit manseng grapes.

Tiny petit verdot grapes.

Safety, shoots, & blooms

Safety third had been my catch phrase. But, eventually, I had to ponder the dangers associated with operating a vineyard. Tractors. Pesticides. PTO-driven equipment. As Mike Rowe says in his video blog, no one else is going to look out for my safety.

I visited Dick Button at Ivy Creek Vineyards to learn about vineyard safety. He discussed pesticide storage, safety during mixing/spraying/cleaning, tractor roll bars, tractor air filtration, PTO shaft clearance, and many other safety issues. He gave me a very nice pair of safety gloves, to ensure I knew what I needed in pesticide handling. This well-spent afternoon may help me live a bit longer & healthier.

Dick Button with a protective suit.

Dick recommended that I pursue Pesticide certification through Virginia Cooperative Extension. One Extension visit and several emails & phone calls later, I was on track. There is a core curriculum available through Virginia Tech, and free testing is performed at DMV (everyone loves to go to DMV!). The certification process stresses personal safety, environmental safety, and appropriate use of pesticides. We will continue to use sustainable viticultural practices, following an integrated pest management system.

Reynard Florence Vineyard is a new local vineyard and winery. Their tasting room opened a few weeks ago. I dropped by last week, and met Roe Allison in his vineyard. Roe asked me if I wanted a tasting. I said that I want to help him in his vineyard for a while. After he realized that he wasn't dreaming, we shoot-thinned rows of merlot. What a cool experience! First of all, I operate VSP compared to his Smart-Dyson. Completely different! While I try to have 3-4 shoots per foot, his bidirectional growth requires much denser growth around the cordons. We talked vines, wines, and life. After a bit of work, we sampled his wines. I particularly was impressed with his 2011 100% grenache, sampled from the barrel. He will likely blend it, but it was splendid (some bing cherry goodness). 


And yes, our vineyard keeps growing. We just had 2 inches of rain in the last two days. Nonetheless, the spray program is holding up well. As you can see, several of the vines have already reached the top wire. Shoot thinning is a constant, vigilant pursuit. Cluster thinning will ensue after fruit set. So far, so good.


And no deer problems! Not a single shoot eaten by deer. The milorganite bags are making a tremendous difference this year.
  

Petit manseng rows at left, petit verdot rows at right.

Ready or not, bloom is here. Intensive surveillance and spraying is critical right now. The Petit manseng is blooming, with Petit verdot close behind. Hopefully, a great fruit set will commence. 

Petit manseng bloom.

Growing, growing.

A little water, and the vines are going crazy. I had to hand water once, and rain followed the next week. I have thinned shoots twice. Shoot thinning helps direct growth and limit vigor. The cultural practices and spray program are keeping the vineyard pristine. Contrast the vineyard with a couple distant Concord grapes (black rot spots) and orchard (some cedar apple rust), and you can see the benefit of proper maintenance.

Petit manseng.

Petit manseng, preparing the flowers.

Petit verdot.

Petit verdot, with my favorite pest insect control device.

The big freeze?

For 10 days, we were warned, scared, and prepared for the worst. Weather reports indicated low temperatures in the high 20s this week. After a very warm & early start, grape growers across central Virginia worried. Helicopters were prepared (mine is "Harold" from Thomas the Tank Engine), wind machines started, and burn piles lit. But the cold was never as bad as expected. Whew! My lowest temperature was 35 degrees, reached last Saturday and yesterday. Time to grow now. Let the next phase of work begin.

New growth 2012

The 2012 growing season is ripping right along. We experienced a VERY early budbreak, three weeks early. The petit manseng erupted March 23rd. The petit verdot followed a week later. So far, so good. I have already sprayed the vineyard twice. The only signs of mildew have been on the lowest leaves of 2011 planted vines. The vineyard looks great right now.

Petit manseng, 23-March-2012.

Petit manseng, 01-April-2012

Petit verdot, 01-April-2012.

Petit verdot, 01-April-2012.

But something wicked this way comes... Significant deer damage has already been seen in the orchard. Deer are eating the tender leaves from pear trees. So far, the sprays have deterred the deer in the vineyard. I pulled a page from the Vintage Virginia Apples playbook. I visited Chuck Shelton, and purchased their little cloth bags. Mr. Shelton fills the bags with milorganite and ties them to all of their fruit trees. The deer do not like the smell (Milwaukee sewage - yuck). Now, Firstfruits Vineyard is full of bags. I will keep you updated...

Milorganite deer deterrent. 

One final note: weather. Weather makes us or breaks us (reference 2011). Temperatures in the 80s in mid-March helped expedite bud break.  Well, we now face a very chilly week ahead. There is a freeze warning tonight, but a big freeze may be coming. We just received notice that a hard freeze may hit central Virginia in seven days. Hoping for the best, planning for the worst.

Wine study: Paso Robles

Three wines worthy of praise and purchase.

A key to producing a high quality product is high quality research and development. I was able to conduct some helpful research in Paso Robles, CA last week. In 1990, Paso wineries numbered in the 20s. Now, there are over 250 wineries. In other words, the Paso vineyard landscape looked a lot like Virginia twenty years ago. And central coast wines now speak for themselves.


A couple introductory notes... Wineries west of US-101 are closer to the mountains and coastal airflow. These environmental conditions are supposed to grow a superior grape, and subsequently, many hold western wineries in higher esteem. However, the Templeton Gap seems to offer relief to some eastern wineries, as far away as Creston. This gap funnels coastal airflow toward Creston, allowing some of the lowest temperatures in the Paso Robles AVA. Okay, time to discuss the grapes!


First, Creston. We met David Parrish of Parrish Family Vineyard. David is a dear friend of my father-in-law. Parrish Family Vineyard specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, growing several clones. I spoke with David for hours, and it was amazing. We walked his new 100 acre plot, where he is planting 40 acres in vines this spring. We walked around his established cab vineyard. He offered great advice regarding future Firstfruits plantings and winemaking. I am now convinced that cabernet sauvignon clone 337 at five feet spacing, cane-pruned is my next planting. And then we visited the Parrish tasting room in downtown Paso Robles. My favorite by far was the 2009 cab - *highly recommended* tho' not yet available for sale. When this wine is available, scoop it up.


Also in Creston, we visted Chateau Margene. I met Michael Mooney, owner and winemaker. Such intense flavors! All of their Rhone blends were amazing. I was so enchanted by the truly amazing wines that I missed my opportunity to ask "how" questions to Mike. I highly recommend Chateau Margene, particularly the Mooney Brothers label (Rhone wines).


On my own, I visited Tablas Creek Vineyards, located in the western loop toward Adelaida. I had to see an organic vineyard with my own eyes. They are even using sheep in the winter vineyard to eat weeds, and free range chickens to eat bugs. I don't know how they defend against Eutypa, and I certainly did see dead vines in the vineyard. Regarding winemaking, I appreciated their blending, subtle oak use, and offerings at multiple quality/price points. Tablas Creek showed that environmental stewardship, economic savvy, and excellent wine may coexist.


Another solid winery was Daou, west of 101. Daou starting planting in 2007, so they are not estate wines. But the view! There was a 270 degree view from their lofty winery. Their Grenache blanc was super good, and the red blends were solid. I only expect great wines from this producer.


As we wrapped up our time in Paso, I asked my brother-in-law Ian Blackburn (Master of Wine candidate, learnaboutwine.com) for a few last minute suggestions. One these recommended wineries was Edward Sellers Vineyards. This young vineyard is fairly low-lying, so frost problems were expected as we approached the winery. The tasting room discussion confirmed the frost problems, and admitted that mourvedre had not been harvested for the past two years due to poor ripening. Great Paso mourvedre had pushed me toward planting some vines in Virginia -- reality tempered my excitement. But the wines didn't show any problems! Overall excellent. The whites were all well crafted, and the reds were exemplary. If you like Rhone, you will love Edward Sellers -- Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Counoise, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Robert Parker loves Edward Sellers, as do we. 


Overall, Paso Robles was inspirational regarding winegrowing and winemaking. I look forward to applying these lessons in the current vintage and future plantings.

Winter is ending.

What a great two weeks! There have been so many learning opportunities, as well as preparing the vineyard for the upcoming season.


Last Tuesday, I pruned young viognier vines with Jake at Mount Juliet Vineyards. It certainly is helpful to read and apply independently with my own vineyard. It was significantly *more* beneficial to study under an expert. I have been pruning my own vines since 2009, but Jake helped to direct me and show the errors in my thinking. I really appreciate his holistic view, and long term vision for his vineyard. It was hard work, and I slept well that night!


This Tuesday, I attended the Integrated Pest Management symposium at King Family Vineyards. Dr Mizuho Nita and Tremain Hatch discussed current fungus, bacteria, and insect invaders, as well as how to deal with the problems. Spotted wine Drosophila makes my blood boil! It was also fantastic to discuss wine growing and winemaking with true central Virginia experts. I poured my cabernet franc/chambourcin blend for some winemakers, and received very helpful guidance.


And of course, I pruned Firstfruits Vineyard. I certainly do see Phomopsis cane in my vineyard, which will be appropriately addressed (in petit verdot, but not petit manseng). So much to learn. I'm glad I'm starting on such a small scale, to limit expensive mistakes.

Valentines Day 2012

In my last post, I alluded to a potential exciting addition to Firstfruits Vineyard. Months ago, Jake Busching advised me that Pollak Vineyards had an old sprayer that they had not used since their first growing season (2003). This sprayer originally was used for apple trees, and needed quite a bit of mechanical attention. Jake said maybe they could let me tinker with the sprayer and use it on my developing vineyard.

In November, I discussed this idea with Turtle Zwadlo, vineyard manager and perhaps the nicest person on the planet. He was unbelievably helpful with advice and education. Turtle said that I could try to restore the sprayer, and then, if it works, I could further work out the longer term details with Mr. Pollak.

It took a while to organize the manpower and timing, but Valentines Day 2012 was pick-up day for the sprayer. But, set-back! The Pollak tractor with hydraulics was broken down, so lifting the sprayer must be done by hand. Glad we have strong hands!

After Raphael, Victor, Turtle and I carried the sprayer from the far corner of the barn, Turtle hooked up a come-along to lift the sprayer onto my truck.

Turtle stands victorious! Man over matter.

The sprayer sees the light of day for the first time in almost a decade. 

Now the work begins! Cleaning first, then hose and nozzle replacement. 

This VERY temperate winter has made many growers start to sweat already. The wet autumn followed by a very warm winter is a bit scary. Two growing seasons potentially could be compromised for me in a matter of months.

But the vines continue to sleep. We hope they remain dormant until a typical April budbreak.

Sleeping petit verdot.