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| Three wines worthy of praise and purchase. |
A key to producing a high quality product is high quality research and development. I was able to conduct some helpful research in Paso Robles, CA last week. In 1990, Paso wineries numbered in the 20s. Now, there are over 250 wineries. In other words, the Paso vineyard landscape looked a lot like Virginia twenty years ago. And central coast wines now speak for themselves.
A couple introductory notes... Wineries west of US-101 are closer to the mountains and coastal airflow. These environmental conditions are supposed to grow a superior grape, and subsequently, many hold western wineries in higher esteem. However, the Templeton Gap seems to offer relief to some eastern wineries, as far away as Creston. This gap funnels coastal airflow toward Creston, allowing some of the lowest temperatures in the Paso Robles AVA. Okay, time to discuss the grapes!
First, Creston. We met David Parrish of Parrish Family Vineyard. David is a dear friend of my father-in-law. Parrish Family Vineyard specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, growing several clones. I spoke with David for hours, and it was amazing. We walked his new 100 acre plot, where he is planting 40 acres in vines this spring. We walked around his established cab vineyard. He offered great advice regarding future Firstfruits plantings and winemaking. I am now convinced that cabernet sauvignon clone 337 at five feet spacing, cane-pruned is my next planting. And then we visited the Parrish tasting room in downtown Paso Robles. My favorite by far was the 2009 cab - *highly recommended* tho' not yet available for sale. When this wine is available, scoop it up.
Also in Creston, we visted Chateau Margene. I met Michael Mooney, owner and winemaker. Such intense flavors! All of their Rhone blends were amazing. I was so enchanted by the truly amazing wines that I missed my opportunity to ask "how" questions to Mike. I highly recommend Chateau Margene, particularly the Mooney Brothers label (Rhone wines).
On my own, I visited Tablas Creek Vineyards, located in the western loop toward Adelaida. I had to see an organic vineyard with my own eyes. They are even using sheep in the winter vineyard to eat weeds, and free range chickens to eat bugs. I don't know how they defend against Eutypa, and I certainly did see dead vines in the vineyard. Regarding winemaking, I appreciated their blending, subtle oak use, and offerings at multiple quality/price points. Tablas Creek showed that environmental stewardship, economic savvy, and excellent wine may coexist.
Another solid winery was Daou, west of 101. Daou starting planting in 2007, so they are not estate wines. But the view! There was a 270 degree view from their lofty winery. Their Grenache blanc was super good, and the red blends were solid. I only expect great wines from this producer.
As we wrapped up our time in Paso, I asked my brother-in-law Ian Blackburn (Master of Wine candidate, learnaboutwine.com) for a few last minute suggestions. One these recommended wineries was Edward Sellers Vineyards. This young vineyard is fairly low-lying, so frost problems were expected as we approached the winery. The tasting room discussion confirmed the frost problems, and admitted that mourvedre had not been harvested for the past two years due to poor ripening. Great Paso mourvedre had pushed me toward planting some vines in Virginia -- reality tempered my excitement. But the wines didn't show any problems! Overall excellent. The whites were all well crafted, and the reds were exemplary. If you like Rhone, you will love Edward Sellers -- Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Counoise, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc. Robert Parker loves Edward Sellers, as do we.
Overall, Paso Robles was inspirational regarding winegrowing and winemaking. I look forward to applying these lessons in the current vintage and future plantings.
